Shallow Depth of Field for Smoke Bomb Photography
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TL;DR
What is a shallow depth of field in photography? And how can you use the technique for awesome, pro-level effects?
What You'll Learn
- Shallow Depth of Field and Smoke Bombs: Why does it matter?
- Why is a shallow depth of field effect important when shooting smoke bomb photos?
- How to achieve a shallow depth of field with colored smoke bombs:
- Final thoughts on shallow depth of field:
- Frequently Asked Questions
What is a shallow depth of field in photography? And how can you use the technique for awesome, pro-level effects?
I’m going to cover everything you’ll need to know about shallow depth of field, including:
- What it is
- Why it can be useful for smoke bomb photography
- And a few easy ways to create that sick effect
I’m willing to bet that you’ll be an expert on shallow depth of field by the time you finish reading this.
Ready? Let’s start with a basic definition:
Shallow Depth of Field and Smoke Bombs: Why does it matter?
A shallow depth of field refers to an effect where a small fraction of the image is in focus.
For example, a picture might include an in-focus subject, but have a blurry background. This is super common in portraiture (and you’ll see that the majority of my examples are portraits for this very reason!).
A shallow depth of field is different from a deep depth of field, where the entire shot, from foreground to background, remains in focus. That technique is very typical in landscape photography due to the emphasis on detail. For something like smokes bombs and wedding photography, you'll definitely want to focus on a shallow depth of field
Why is a shallow depth of field effect important when shooting smoke bomb photos?
Photographers love using shallow depth of field effects for two big reasons:
- It separates the subject from the background, thus helping the subject stand out.
- It also generally blurs the background, which ends up looking really satisfying.
In many cases, shallow depth of field is a stylistic choice, and its use is dependent on the type of photographer behind the camera.
A few examples that tend to utilize the effects of shallow depth of field:
- Portrait photography
- Halloween Smoke Bomb photography
- Street photography (sometimes)
- Wildlife photography
- Pumpkin Smoke Bombs
- Fashion photography
- Gender Reveal Photos
- Product photography (sometimes)
This list is by no means definitive; and as this is a creative endeavor, you should feel empowered to use whatever method you like in any given situation.
How to achieve a shallow depth of field with colored smoke bombs:
1. Increase the subject to background distance
Possibly the easiest way to achieve a shallow depth of field effect is to position your subject as far away from any background as possible.
If your subject is standing right in front of your given background, it’ll be in focus regardless of what you do. Alternatively, if they’re standing 200 meters in front of that same background, it’s going to be significantly more blurry. You’re giving your background more room to blur.
Quick note: To be clear, the distance between your subject and background does not actually change the depth of field. It remains the same regardless (it depends on other factors that I discuss below).
Separating your subject increases the appearance of a shallow depth of field and gives you a near-equivalent effect.
2. Widen your lens’s aperture
Every lens has an aperture – which is essentially a hole – that will dilate or contract depending on your camera’s aperture setting. The wider the aperture, the more shallow the depth of field.
If you use portrait mode on your camera, it’ill automatically widen your aperture. But for maximum control, you should try using either the Aperture Priority or Manual Priority, which allow you to specify your preferred aperture (which directly affects the blurred appearance of the photo).
Just so you know, when it comes to apertures, small numbers, like f/1.8 and f/2.8, correspond to a wide aperture (and inherently shallow depth of field). Alternatively, large numbers, like f/16 and f/22, correlate to a narrow aperture (like you would typically use in landscape photography).
For the most intense shallow depth of field effects, you should use lenses with f/2.8 and wider if possible, that said, not every lens has the capability to go that wide; so keep that in mind.
One of the best ways to employ this is to experiment with a subject and a bunch of different apertures. Then take a look at each photo carefully, noticing how the aperture setting affects the depth of field.
3. Use a long lens (and get close to your subject)
The closer you are to your subject, whether optically (with a long lens) or physically (by moving toward your subject), the more shallow the depth of field and the more significant the background blur.
For that reason, the best shallow depth of field portraits are usually on an 85mm lens or a 70-200mm lens, as opposed to a 50mm or 35mm lens. That longer focal length makes it easier to get close, consequently decreasing the depth of field. Make sense?
Don’t despair if you only own a 35mm lens; you can still create a shallow depth of field. You just have to get close to your subject (make sure they brushed their teeth!). It might be a bit awkward if you’re photographing people since you’ll be shooting from right in front of their face, but it’s always worth it for the shot.
And just FYI, longer lenses have another advantage over shorter lenses:
They compress the background. It’s a bit difficult to explain, but it leads to a smoother shallow depth of field effect and creamier blur.
So if you can, try to shoot your shots from a closer distance along with using a long lens. (Don’t go wild with the focal length because if you try to use, say a 300mm lens, you’ll have to be way too far away, which becomes untenable. Not to mention the fact that you’ll lose some of the intimacy that is shared between photographer and subject)
4. Get a wide-aperture lens
Earlier, I mentioned that a wide aperture leads to fantastic shallow depth of field effects. All lenses feature a maximum aperture.
If a shallow depth of field is what you’re really after, a lens with a wide aperture (otherwise known as a fast lens) is what you need.
Sadly, these lenses tend to be a bit expensive, but they’re worth the investment if you want the shallow depth of field. Luckily, there are a few fast lenses, like the 50mm f/1.8, that are both capable of beautiful background blur and pretty inexpensive too.
A bonus that comes with fast lenses: they’re also great in low light!
Some lenses offer better background blur than others, so you should definitely do some research before purchasing, and see if you can find sample images as well. This way you can be confident with your decision.
Final thoughts on shallow depth of field:
After reading this article, you should feel pretty confident on the subject of shallow depth of field.
Get out there with your camera and use what I’ve taught you to create some awesome art. And most importantly, go have some fun out there!
⚠ Safety Notes
- Always use smoke grenades outdoors in well-ventilated areas
- Keep a fire extinguisher or water source nearby
- Hold away from face, clothing, and flammable materials
- Supervise children at all times -- adults only should handle activation
- Check local regulations before use -- see our state-by-state legality guide
Frequently Asked Questions
What smoke grenade is best for photography?
The WP40 Wire Pull Smoke Grenade is the top choice for photography, and for good reason: its 90-second burn time gives you and your subject enough time to compose, adjust, and shoot multiple frames before the cloud dissipates. The WP40 produces a dense, sustained color column that reads beautifully at both wide and telephoto focal lengths. If you want an even wider cloud from the first second of ignition, pair your session with the Twin Vent II, which uses dual vents to disperse smoke laterally and immediately rather than building gradually. For tighter editorial shots or gender reveal setups where a shorter burst is sufficient, the EG25 Wire Pull delivers a compact 30-second burn at a smaller footprint. All three formats are available in nine colors: Black, Blue, Green, Orange, Pink, Purple, Red, White, and Yellow, so matching your shoot palette is straightforward.
How long do smoke bombs last?
Burn times vary by model across the Enola Gaye lineup available at Shutter Bombs. The WP40 Wire Pull and the Twin Vent II deliver sustained smoke — about 90 seconds from the WP40 and a dense ~25-second burst from the Twin Vent II, making them the longest-burning options for extended portrait or editorial sessions. The TP40 Top Pull burns for about 60 seconds and produces the same dense output as the WP40, differing only in its top-cap activation mechanism rather than a ring pull. The EG25 Wire Pull burns for approximately 30 seconds, which suits quick accent shots or tighter compositions where a shorter, more controlled burst is all you need. For planning purposes, budget at least one to two units per distinct shot setup, since 30 to 90 seconds passes quickly once you account for activation time, subject positioning, and firing the shutter. Longer burn models like the WP40 give you the most flexibility per unit.
Are smoke bombs safe for photography?
Enola Gaye smoke grenades are designed with photography and event use in mind, but they are pyrotechnic devices and require consistent safety discipline on every use. The person activating the device must wear gloves and eye protection without exception. Never place any part of your body near the smoke vents. The casing stays glove-cool and the smoke is cool-burning, but still wear gloves and avoid the vents. Shoot outdoors only, and keep all units away from dry grass, wooden decks, and any other flammable surfaces. Following these precautions, Enola Gaye products are widely used safely by photographers worldwide.
What aperture creates the best shallow depth of field in smoke bomb photography?
Apertures between f/1.8 and f/2.8 produce the most visually striking depth-of-field separation in smoke bomb photography. At f/1.8, smoke positioned behind your subject renders as a luminous, softly blurred wash of color rather than a defined cloud, which isolates the subject cleanly and gives the image a painterly, editorial quality. At f/2.8 you retain slightly more cloud texture while still achieving strong background separation. If you want both your subject and the leading edge of the smoke column in acceptable focus simultaneously, stepping down to f/4 or f/5.6 achieves that balance without losing too much of the color saturation that makes smoke photography compelling. The WP40 Wire Pull Smoke Grenade, with its 90-second burn, gives you enough time to experiment across multiple aperture settings in a single activation, which is one reason it remains the most popular format for photographers seeking to refine their look on location.
Does smoke bomb photography require a fast lens?
A fast prime lens in the f/1.8 to f/2.8 range is genuinely advantageous for smoke bomb photography, particularly if shallow depth of field and subject isolation are central to your creative goals. That said, a fast lens is not a strict requirement. On a bright, overcast day, an f/4 zoom lens produces excellent results, especially when paired with a high-output unit like the WP40 Wire Pull Smoke Grenade, whose 90-second burn generates enough dense color that even moderate apertures capture a visually rich cloud. Where fast lenses become more critical is in shade or golden-hour shoots, where light levels drop and maintaining a fast enough shutter speed to freeze subject motion while keeping ISO manageable requires the extra stop or two. A 50mm f/1.8 or 85mm f/1.8 prime is an accessible, affordable entry point that covers both shallow-depth creative work and lower-light smoke sessions effectively.
How do I keep my subject sharp when shooting smoke bombs with shallow depth of field?
Keeping your subject sharp at wide apertures during a smoke bomb session requires disciplined autofocus technique and active management between each burst. Use your camera's single-point or eye-tracking autofocus mode rather than wide-area or zone modes, which can lock onto the smoke cloud itself instead of your subject's face. Confirm focus before every activation, and reconfirm it if your subject shifts position even slightly, because at f/1.8 a six-inch forward or backward movement can push the eyes entirely outside the sharp focal plane. Shoot in continuous autofocus with a high burst rate during the active burn so you capture the frames where focus is confirmed. The WP40 Wire Pull Smoke Grenade is particularly useful here: its 90-second burn gives you time to settle your subject, verify focus, and shoot methodically rather than rushing through a 30-second window. Pre-focusing on a static stand-in at your subject's position before activation is also an effective technique on constrained setups.
Can I use back-button focus for smoke bomb photography?
Back-button focus is one of the most practical autofocus configurations you can use for smoke bomb sessions. By decoupling continuous focus tracking from your shutter release, you press the back button with your thumb to track your subject's face or eyes continuously while firing the shutter freely with your index finger, without the camera attempting to refocus on each frame. This is especially valuable during an active smoke burn, where the colored cloud itself can confuse standard shutter-activated autofocus systems into locking onto the smoke rather than your subject. The result is a higher percentage of sharp, correctly focused frames across the burst. Pair this technique with the Twin Vent II Smoke Grenade or WP40 Wire Pull Smoke Grenade for a 90-second burn window that gives you enough time to settle into back-button tracking rhythm before the cloud peaks. Most modern mirrorless and DSLR bodies support back-button focus configuration through their custom controls menu.
What smoke grenade is best for photography?
The WP40 Wire Pull Smoke Grenade is best for photography with its 90-second burn time. For dramatic bursts, add a Twin Vent II. Browse all options in our product comparison guide.
How long do smoke bombs last?
Enola Gaye smoke grenades last 25 to 90 seconds depending on the model. WP40 lasts 90 seconds, TP40 lasts 60 seconds, EG25 lasts 30 seconds, Twin Vent II lasts 25 seconds.
Are smoke bombs safe for photography?
Yes. Enola Gaye products are CE Approved (EU) and ATF Compliant (US), non-toxic, and use cool-burn technology. Always use outdoors with gloves and eye protection.
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WP40 Wire Pull Smoke Grenade
Our best seller. 90-second burn, dense output, wire-pull activation.
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Top-pull activation. Same output as WP40, different activation style.
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About Shutter Bombs
Shutter Bombs has been shipping Enola Gaye products since 2017. We supply photographers, event planners, gender reveal parties, and creative professionals across the US. Every product ships via FedEx Hazmat Ground from a Nevada warehouse; ships to the contiguous US except Massachusetts. Questions? Email hello@shutterbombs.com.